At a glance:  Steps to ordaining as a novice at Sanshin

Establishment
Discernment
  • Complete ten retreats or sesshin at Sanshin
  • Have a face-to-face meeting with the preceptor
  • Engage in personal reflection about aspirations for dharma leadership and requirements for authorization
  • Establish agreement with the preceptor about willingness to proceed

Preparation
  • Work with a teacher of dharma sewing to complete a seven-row black okesa, rakusu, cases and zagu (see below), or acquire these items in some other way acceptable to the preceptor
  • Begin to acquire the remaining necessary items of clothing and the oryoki set
  • Continue to engage regularly and sincerely in zazen, work, study and ritual
  • Take on positions of appropriate responsibility as assigned by practice leaders
  • Make plans for participating in and completing additional training necessary for the carrying out of your personal vow(s) as well as Sotoshu authorization

​Shukke tokudo (novice ordination ceremony)
  • When sewing is nearly completed, determine a ceremony date with the preceptor
  • Ensure that all necessary clothing and oryoki items are in hand
  • Give completed okesa, rakusu and cases to the preceptor in plenty of time for him or her to complete inscriptions
  • Complete copying of lineage papers and give to the preceptor in plenty of time for him or her to complete inscriptions
  • Practice putting on, taking off and wearing all robes as well as unfolding and bowing with the zagu
  • Attend ceremony rehearsal(s) and the ceremony itself
  • Complete and return Sotoshu paperwork to register the ordination as requested

After ordination
  • Remain in regular contact with the preceptor as he or she requests
  • When appropriate, take on the role of shuso and complete honsoku gyocha and hossenshiki
  • When appropriate, complete residential practice in a Sotoshu-authorized training temple
  • At the preceptor’s request (typically after at least five years as a novice), begin preparations for dharma transmission, including sewing two okesa, a rakusu, cases and zagu, as well as copying all transmission documents.
  • When appropriate, make plans to complete zuisse ceremonies at Eihei-ji and Soji-ji
  • Complete and return all Sotoshu paperwork related to changes of status
Cost considerations

The reality is that ordination and training to meet Sotoshu requirements is not inexpensive.  You may wish to do some budget planning to avoid later surprises for yourself and your family.  Below are the basics, with approximate costs as of 2024.  Some costs will depend on the distance you must travel, the size and material of your robes, and other variables.  You may be able to save money by acquiring second-hand items, borrowing them, or making items yourself, but be very sure they conform to requirements.  You will not need to make all of these expenditures at once; they are listed here in the rough order in which you will need them over the course of five years or so.
​
  • Travel and fees for ten sesshin or retreats at Sanshin
  • Black cotton fabric for okesa, rakusu, zagu, cases and kohonbukusa  ($25 - $50)
  • Regular travel to Sanshin for sewing instruction
  • Koromo and shukin ($350 - $700)
  • White and colored kimono with obi ($200 - $400)
  • Juban ($45 - $65) and bessu ($40)
    [it’s helpful to have a couple of each]
  • Five-bowl oryoki with mizuita, hattan, utensils and linens ($500)
  • Travel to Sanshin for shukke tokudo
  • Sotoshu fees to register shukke tokudo ($70)
  • Travel to Japan for six months to one year of senmon sodo training 
    (with necessary leave of absence from work)
  • Samu-e ($130 - $300)
  • Takuhatsu accessories ($100)
  • Travel to Sanshin for shuso hossen
  • Sotoshu fees to register shuso hossen ($70)
  • Brown fabric for two okesa, rakusu, zagu and cases ($50 - 75)
  • Costs for Sotoshu materials for copying three transmission documents ($200)
  • Travel to Sanshin for dharma transmission
  • Sotoshu fees to register dharma transmission ($70)
  • Travel to Japan for zuise at Eiheiji and Sojiji
  • Sotoshu fees to register zuise ($70)

Matsumotoya in Kyoto is one source for official Sotoshu supplies.  You can check the online catalog for the latest prices.
​About sewing okesa within the Sanshin Style

After coming to agreement with your preceptor that your ordination as a novice will take place, and at his or her discretion, you will begin the process of sewing a black okesa, rakusu, cases and zagu under the direction of Sanshin’s sewing teacher(s).  If you live in Bloomington or can travel here, make an appointment to meet in person with a teacher.  She will get you started and guide you through the entire process, from fabric selection through sewing and completing your items.  An in-person meeting is much more preferable, but if you live at a distance from Sanshin and absolutely can’t travel here immediately, you will meet over Zoom.  

The main text for Sanshin’s sewing practice is Study of the Okesa, Nyoho-e, Buddha’s Robe by Tomoe Katagiri.  However, our practice also reflects sewing instructions from Kodo Sawaki as well as Antaiji’s sewing practice; spending time with Great Robe of Liberation: ​​A Study of The Kesa is highly recommended.  You cannot simply download Mrs. Katagiri’s book and construct robes on your own, no matter how good a seamstress or tailor you are; our practice differs in some respects from that in the book, and you must follow your sewing teacher’s instructions carefully in order to comply with Sanshin style.  Neither can you simply ask a spouse or friend with sewing skills to complete this practice for you.  Those who do not wear okesa themselves have difficulty understanding the considerations and requirements involved and may make assumptions based on worldly sewing experience that will cause trouble for you later on.  In addition, learning about and sewing the okesa is itself an important practice and a vital part of your development as clergy.  After all, you will be wearing and caring for Buddha’s robe for the rest of your life.  Finally, you cannot simply make use of whatever robes you happen to encounter as models; different sects and lineages do things differently, whether in Japan or in the West.  In order to fulfill your responsibility to carry on Sanshin style, you must follow the directions of your teacher at Sanshin.

We follow the traditional way of calculating the size of your okesa by first measuring your chu (elbow to the tip of your middle finger) length.  There are equations to complete and also a chart of standard sizes according to your height to use as a reference.  Your sewing teacher will work with you to include several methods and considerations in carefully determining the correct size of your okesa.

According to the Vinaya, Buddha’s practice regulations, the color of the robe must be kesa or kashaya: dark, muted or mixed.  Technically, black doesn’t fall into this category; however, in compliance with the Japanese Soto School regulations we wear black koromo and novice robes.  This is just one of the paradoxes of denominational regulations, as you will discover.
 
  • Lay precepts (zaike tokudo): dark blue for lay okesa and rakusu
  • Novice ordination (shukke tokudo): black for 7 jo (panel) okesa, zagu and rakusu
  • Dharma transmission: brown for 9 jo and 7 jo okesa, zagu and rakusu

Whether you are working in person with your teacher or conducting your sewing practice at a distance, you must bring or send a small sample of your proposed fabric to your teacher for approval before beginning your work.  It’s helpful, if possible, to get a sample before actually buying your yardage in case your teacher has any concerns.   She will determine the appropriate thread to go with your fabric.  You will not need to acquire a rakusu ring; within Sanshin style, rakusu do not include a ring.